How New Siding Can Transform Your Home
The look, the efficiency, and what a full replacement involves.
Read more →Siding takes a beating between December and March: brittle vinyl, ice against the wall, and trim that quietly rots behind a gutter that overflowed all fall. Here's what goes wrong, which siding holds up best, and what to fix before the first hard freeze.
Vinyl siding is flexible in July and glass-hard in January. Once the temperature drops well below freezing, an impact that would bounce off in summer cracks the panel: a snow shovel handle, gravel thrown by a snowblower, a chunk of ice sliding off the roof. The crack itself lets water behind the panel, and the panel can't be patched. It gets replaced.
Replacement is a small job when the weather cooperates. A siding tool unzips the panel above, the damaged one comes out, a new one goes in. We'd rather do it above freezing, since cold vinyl fights the tool and can crack again going in. One thing to know: vinyl fades over the years, so a new panel on twenty-year-old siding will read a shade brighter. We'll tell you that before the job, not after.
Panels that pop loose or buckle in cold are a different problem. Vinyl expands and contracts with temperature and has to be nailed loosely, in the center of the slot, so it can move. Siding nailed tight buckles in summer and pulls off in winter, and the fix is re-hanging it properly.
Siding is the first layer of weather protection, not the last. Behind it there should be a housewrap or waterproofing membrane, and that layer is what keeps a wall dry. Winter finds every gap in it. Snow piled against the house by a plow melts against the wall and refreezes in the laps. An ice dam pushes water down behind the gutter and onto the wall. Failed caulk at a window lets meltwater into the framing, where it freezes, expands, and opens the gap further.
The signs show up in spring: paint blistering on interior walls, a musty smell in a closet on an outside wall, siding that has bowed out where the sheathing behind it swelled. Every siding job we do includes waterproofing behind the panels, because the siding is only as good as what's under it.
Two words worth knowing. The fascia is the flat board that runs along the roof edge, the one the gutters hang from. The soffit is the panel underneath the overhang, between the fascia and the wall. On most homes around here both are painted wood, and they take more water than any other wood on the house.
A gutter that overflowed all fall has been soaking the fascia behind it for months. By spring the board is soft, the gutter hangers have nothing to grip, and the soffit behind it has started to go too. That's the repair we get called for most after winter, and it's usually the gutter that caused it. We replace rotted fascia and soffit with cellular PVC trim that doesn't absorb water, so it's the last time you replace it.
Senco did many homes in my neighborhood. I recognized their competence, honesty and quality right away and knew I had to have the Senco team on my roof too. Very satisfied with all aspects of the demolition and installation which was quite complex. Replaced facia boards with AZEK, new gutters, and a new roof. Thanks again Senco!! Excellent job!!
Jim O. · Google Review
The trim work is described on our siding page, and the gutter side of the problem is in our guide to how clogged gutters cause roof leaks.
When an ice dam backs water up under the shingles, some of it runs behind the gutter and down the face of the house. The tell is a stain or a streak of ice on the siding below the gutter line, or paint lifting on the fascia in one spot every winter. The siding didn't fail; the roof edge did. Our ice dam guide walks through why it happens and the two fixes that stop it, and our crews handle the removal when water is already coming in.
We install all four. For most homes in our area a full siding replacement runs about $25,000 to $30,000 depending on size, stories, and material, and it comes with new seamless gutters at no charge. Financing is available at 0% for 12 months through GreenSky, with longer plans if you'd rather keep the monthly payment low.
If you find something you're not sure about, our siding estimate is free and we'll tell you whether it's a repair, a panel swap, or nothing to worry about until spring.
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Winter siding questions we hear every year
Twenty to thirty years for good-quality vinyl that was installed correctly, meaning nailed loosely so it can expand and contract. Sun fades it over time, and cold makes it brittle, so a house with a lot of impacts from ice, snowblowers, or ball games will lose panels sooner. Fiber cement generally lasts longer but needs repainting.
A cracked panel can't be patched; it gets replaced. That's doable in winter on a mild day, but cold vinyl fights the siding tool and can crack while it's being worked, so we'd rather do it above freezing. If the crack is letting water in, we'll seal it temporarily and swap the panel when the weather allows.
The fascia is the flat board along the roof edge that the gutters hang from. The soffit is the panel on the underside of the overhang, between the fascia and the house wall, and it usually carries the vents that let air into the attic. Both are exposed to more water than any other wood on the house, and rotted fascia behind an overflowing gutter is the most common trim repair we do.
Fiber cement handles cold better. It's rigid, doesn't get brittle, and doesn't crack from impacts the way vinyl can in January. It costs more, weighs more, and needs repainting every decade or so. Vinyl costs less and never needs paint, and insulated or cedar-impression vinyl narrows the gap in cold-weather toughness. Both are good choices installed over proper waterproofing, which matters more than the panel.